Petzl
SKU:A070,P53
Petzl Micro Traxion
Petzl Micro Traxion
The Petzl Micro Traxion is a versatile and lightweight progress-capture pulley (weighing only 85 g) perfect for various applications such as crevasse rescue, hauling, self-rescue, and even emergency ascending. The locking mechanism allows the cam to remain open, transforming the device into a basic pulley. Additionally, the sealed ball bearings offer exceptional efficiency (91%).
Features
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Versatile:
- Suitable for crevasse rescue, hauling, self-rescue, and functioning as an emergency ascender.
- Can be used as a simple pulley by securing the cam in the raised position.
- Suitable for crevasse rescue, hauling, self-rescue, and functioning as an emergency ascender.
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Very light and compact:
- Weighs only 85 g.
- A hole enables an Sm’D carabiner to be attached to the pulley with a cord, preventing loss.
- Weighs only 85 g.
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High efficiency:
- Sealed ball bearings ensure exceptional efficiency (91%).
- Operates effectively even on frozen or muddy ropes.
- Compatible with ropes ranging from 7 to 11 mm in diameter.
- Rope installation diagrams are engraved inside the pulley for guidance.
- Sealed ball bearings ensure exceptional efficiency (91%).
- It is compatible exclusively with the PUR’LINE 6 mm cord for hauling a pack. Additional details can be found in the Instructions for Use at www.petzl.com.
- It is also compatible with the RAD LINE 6 mm cord. For further information, please refer to the Instructions for Use at www.petzl.com.
Specifications
| Weight | 85 g |
| Certification(s) | CE EN 567, UIAA |
| Min. rope diameter | 7 mm |
| Max. rope diameter | 11 mm |
| Sheave type | Sealed ball bearings |
| Sheave diameter | 27 mm |
| Working load | 2 x 2.5 = 5 kN |
| Breaking strength | 2 x 7.5 = 15 kN |
| Working load as progress capture pulley | 2.5 kN |
| Breaking strength as progress capture pulley | 4 kN |
| Efficiency | 91 % |
| Inner Pack Count | 1 |
Technology
Technical Notice
Declaration Of Conformity
Tips for maintaining your equipment
Inspection
PPE inspection procedure
PPE checklist
Technical Content
INTRODUCTION
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WARNINGS
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The MICRO TRAXION is effective in rescue situations.
Its compactness and light weight allow it to always be carried with you in most vertical activities. It has many possible uses, from self-rescue to helping a partner in difficulty.
PULLEY SYSTEM EFFICIENCY TESTS WITH MAESTRO, I’D S, PRO TRAXION, ROLLCLIP...
There can be a big difference between the theoretical efficiency of a pulley system and its actual efficiency. Here are test results from the Petzl lab.
1. Efficiency depending on the device used at the head of the system.
The force required to raise a 100 kg mass was tested under several configurations with different devices at the head of the system and with ropes of various diameters.
Test Protocol:
- Ropes tested: RAD LINE 6 mm, 7 mm cord, SEGMENT 8 mm, PUSH 9 mm, CLUB 10 mm, PARALLEL 10.5 mm, AXIS 11 mm, VECTOR 12.5 mm.
- Measurements were made with a constant pull rate of 1.5 meters/minute, on new devices and ropes.
- The results are given for information only; in the field there are numerous variables to take into account (position of haul system elements, rope diameter and construction, hauling speed, hauling smoothness, the haul load...).
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SIMPLE DIRECTIONAL (1:1) |
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Note: Pulley efficiency ratings in the Instructions for Use are based on values measured with a simple 1:1 directional. Hauling efficiency F = xx M is the value obtained with the smallest compatible rope diameter for the device. The pulley efficiency expressed in % is calculated from this value. Efficiency is always less than 100%, which is the efficiency of an ideal pulley (impossible in reality). Example for MAESTRO S: F = 116 M, efficiency = 86% |
| SIMPLE DIRECTIONAL (2:1) |
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HAUL SYSTEM (3:1) |
| HAUL SYSTEM (4:1) |
| HAUL SYSTEM (5:1) |
2. 3:1 Haul system efficiency depending on the redirect point used
BELAYING THE SECOND WITH A MICRO TRAXION OR NANO TRAXION: BEWARE OF ANY FALL
MICRO TRAXION and NANO TRAXION are not belay devices. They were not designed or certified for this use. For practical reasons, however, they are sometimes used to belay a climber from the top anchor of a route. Petzl has conducted a series of tests to understand the limits and risks of this practice.
What makes it feasible to consider using a progress-capture pulley to belay a second, is that the rope above the climber can always be kept taut, thus preventing a free-fall.
For this, the belayer must be especially vigilant: they must take up rope as the climber progresses and avoid any slack between the anchor and the climber.
In particular, when nearing the anchor and during belay-station maneuvers, a 50 cm loop of slack can form very quickly, so all of the climber’s movements must be carefully monitored.
WARNING: Using a progress-capture pulley to belay a second does not allow you to belay them effectively if they want to descend during the climb. It is recommended that the climber be informed of the use of this belay technique and that they know their own personal limits, so that they will also take appropriate precautions.
Certain situations can complicate the maneuver and increase risk:
- An overhang that the climber might not be able to pass: if the second is hanging on the rope, it becomes very complicated to safely lower them. The belayer should instead consider hauling to assist the climber in passing the overhang.
- A pitch that ends with a traverse: when the last quickdraw is unclipped, there is a risk of falling directly on the anchor. If the rope has been properly taken up as the climber progressed, it would mean a pendulum fall.
- Possible movements during belay-station maneuvers. WARNING: the climber absolutely must not climb to the level of the anchor and/or above the progress-capture pulley.
Tests Conducted To Better Understand The Risks Of This Use:
The fall tests were done with a flexible dummy (approximating the behavior of a human body). WARNING: these test results are provided for illustrative purposes only; many factors can worsen the results. In any case, it is recommended to avoid any falls.
Note: One total rope failure was observed during these tests, on a very worn rope (result in red). The results marked in orange represent failure of the rope’s sheath and one or more core strands, which is already an especially dangerous situation for the climber.
Measurement of the critical fall distance depending on the weight of the climber.
| Fall factor 1 test, on new 9 mm VOLTA GUIDE rope. |
| Fall factor 1 comparison, on one strand of new 7.7 mm PASO half rope. |
Comparison of results if a worn rope is used
WARNING: The behavior of worn ropes is not repeatable (depending on their level of wear and the type of wear); these results are given for illustrative purposes only (the tests were done with a well-worn rope).
The essential point to remember is that for this use, a worn rope must be used with even more vigilance than a new rope. (The opposite of a lowering situation where a new rope tends to be more slippery.)
Pendulum Fall Tests
When a pitch ends with a traverse, the risk of a pendulum fall cannot be avoided.
The tests were done for a fairly realistic case of a fall on 2 m of rope when the climber is 1.8 m from the anchor, at the same level.
Tests done on new rope only.
HAULING A BAG: PREPARATION AND TECHNIQUE
In aid climbing, it is essential to organize your equipment. It is impossible to empty your haul bag at each station to find an item forgotten at the bottom. Each item must have its place. In the same way, organization for hauling should also be efficient. First of all, having several bags of 30 to 40 kg, rather than one 80 kg bag, is a good idea. It is not uncommon to see an inexperienced party leave with a huge bag and spend two or three hours hauling it up one pitch! Choosing the hauling technique best suited to, for example, a traverse or a big overhang is also key. Here are some tips for efficiency and for avoiding any serious errors. Before you head off for a vertical adventure of two or three days, practice is strongly recommended.
1. Preparing for Hauling
Attachment of Haul Bag
The haul bag should always remain attached. The attachment knot should be protected with a cut plastic bottle to keep it from snagging in a crack or under an overhang. Between the knot and the bag, you can use a SWIVEL to avoid rope twists during manipulations. Only one of the bag's two haul straps is attached to the carabiner or quick link under the SWIVEL. This way it is easy to open the bag without dropping it. When hauling, nothing should stick out from the bag, and the sling should be folded behind the flaps. Have a lanyard ready for attaching the bag to the station (a knotted rope end is perfect).
Installing a progress capture pulley
Install a PRO TRAXION progress capture pulley on the station.
2. Hauling Technique
Balancier Technique
The easiest and most efficient hauling technique is the "balancier" on the ASCENSION handled rope clamp. It uses the weight of the body as a counterweight to raise the bag. This technique is efficient, although it can only be used with a light bag (30 to 40 kg). For heavier bags, you can either use two climbers for counterweight or employ other hauling techniques.
Warning: during these manipulations, the counterweight climber must always remain attached to the station with a rope.
Traverses and Overhangs
When the pitch is a traverse or a big overhang, the hauling technique needs to be adapted. The goal is to place the bag plumb with the direction of the hauling station to limit pendulums and stress on the anchor.
First, attach the bag several meters from the lower end of the rope. The lower climber lowers the bag on a Munter hitch while the upper climber hauls gently.
Once the bag is vertically aligned with the upper anchor, normal hauling continues.
Munter Hitch
SELF-BELAY: SOLO CLIMBING WITH ONE OR TWO FIXED ROPES
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Important: In climbing or mountaineering, climbing with a partner or in a team offers the highest level of safety.
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In climbing or mountaineering, climbing with a partner or in a team offers the highest level of safety.
Nevertheless, fixed-rope solo climbing is an option that un number of climbers have taken, experimenting with a variety of technical solutions.
Petzl has not developed a device for this activity, but certain ascenders may be used for it by experts.
The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system:
- Effective and immediate blocking in all situations.
- Easy sliding along the rope while climbing.
- Redundancy of the belay.
- Comfort and ease of use.
- A continuous belay during climbing and all operations.
Among the technical decisions to be made by the climber in each situation, one is essential: the appropriate level of redundancy. This level of redundancy will impact both the complexity and the reliability of the belay system.
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Introduction to the principle of redundancy of the belay Considering the possible failure of a single belay system (e.g. in the event of an accident, or error during installation or use), Petzl recommends the use of two systems. The second system is redundant, it is installed as a backup to help ensure continuous protection, even in the event one of the systems fails. For maximum effectiveness, the two systems must be completely independent, so that a potential cause of failure in one system cannot simultaneously affect the other system. Any interference between the two systems must be avoided. It is a good idea to use two different systems, to reduce the risk of repeating the same mistake twice (for example, twice forgetting to activate a MICRO TRAXION’s cam: better to use a NANO TRAXION and a MICRO TRAXION than two MICRO TRAXIONs).
Petzl does not recommend using a single ascender for self-belaying Using a single ascender is technically feasible; however, accidents have been reported. The risks are real in the field, so Petzl recommends using a redundant belay system.
This is because:
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Setting up a self-belay system on two ropes with two ascenders:
Each ascender is installed on a different rope.
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Advantages:
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Disadvantages:
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For the sake of redundancy, each progress-capture pulley can be attached to an independent carabiner (taking care to install the locking sleeves opposite each other). However, this can increase interference between the two devices, and make visual monitoring more difficult. |
Installation on one single rope with two ascenders
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Advantages:
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Disadvantages:
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The quickdraw helps avoid collisions between the devices, but should not reduce comfort: select a length that prevents the straps from pulling on the neck during a rest or fall. |
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Examples Of Devices To Never Be Used For Self-belaying To date, no Petzl device has been specifically designed for self-belayed climbing. The devices below should never be used for self-belaying (non-exhaustive list). |
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SHUNT Never use for self-belaying. Increased risk on overhanging or sloping terrain where the climber’s body can press against the device and prevent blocking. The device will not block if the user grabs it during a fall. Risk of inversion, leading to the possibility of releasing the rope. |
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RESCUCENDER Never use for self-belaying. Increased risk on overhanging or sloping terrain where the climber’s body can press against the device and prevent blocking. The device will not block if the user grabs it during a fall. |
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GRIGRI Never use for self-belaying. The device will not slide along the rope without manual operation by the user. The user must keep their hand on the rope at all times, which means they cannot climb. |
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NEOX Never use for self-belaying. The user must keep their hand on the rope at all times, which means they cannot climb. |
Supplement: Introduction to risk assessment
The risks vary according to the situation: carry out your own assessment!
Examples of installation-related risks:
- Access from above presents a risk of falling before the rope is installed, be vigilant when approaching the anchor.
- Beware of rockfall while accessing the route from above, and when the rope is moving.
- Anchor or rope failure: adapt your installation to the site, choose a solid anchor on two equalized points, avoiding rub points against edges or protruding rock. A rope protector may be required.
- Passing the belay anchor and factor 2 fall. Always stay below the belay anchor: make sure your setup allows for this during access and egress.
- Risk of groundfall: in the first few meters of the climb, even with a properly installed system, you can hit the ground in the event of a fall, due to rope stretch. The elongation of a rope under load is around 10%. If your route is 50 m, there is a risk of groundfall on the first 5 meters of the climb, even from simply resting on the rope.
Examples of handling-related risks:
- Device failure: improper attachment, disabling of the cam, or a side plate opening during use (rubbing, interference from foreign objects).
- Dropping a device when changing the system from ascent to descent.
- Rope loss: do not detach yourself completely from the rope while performing maneuvers, a slight overhang can pendulum the rope out of reach.
- Slack rope: if the rope is not sufficiently weighted from below, the system cannot slide fast enough to keep pace with your climbing, creating slack between you and the anchor. This increases the fall distance.
USING ONLY ONE ASCENDER?
One ascender is not trustworthy; it is recommended to use two ascenders together and/or to use a backup belay system.
1. One Ascender is not Trustworthy
Trusting the belay to a single ascender in motion on the rope is risky.
There is a risk of the ascender coming off the rope:
- Accidental opening of the safety catch is possible while ascending.
There is a risk of the ascender slipping on the rope:
- Excessive mud or ice on the rope, holding the cam open due to poor hand positioning, foreign objects interfering with the cam (branches, pack straps or clothing), worn teeth...
There is risk of disconnecting the ascender's lanyard, if the carabiner opens (rubbing).
Note:
- Breaking strength is not an issue when a single ascender is used by one person.
- All of the certification tests, and Petzl's internal tests, are done on a single ascender.
Note:
When an ascender is weighted on a rope, it is nearly impossible to cause it to disengage or slip. It's when the ascender is unweighted and/or moving on the rope that there is a risk of slippage or separation from the rope.
2. Differences Between a Chest Ascender and an Ascender on a Lanyard
Chest Ascender
The chest ascender is connected directly to the harness without extension. Its stable position allows for good rope glide.
The user takes care to avoid creating a loop of slack when progressing, thus maintaining a low potential fall length.
Ascender on a Lanyard (or Progression Ascender)
A lanyard offers more freedom of movement to the user, who can mistakenly find themselves above their ascender or with a slack lanyard. This creates potential for a fall. As with the chest ascender, one must also monitor the tension in the rope between the ascender and the anchor. Any loop of slack is dangerous.
Note:
- The ascender standards partially cover the risk of falling on a slack lanyard.
- The EN 12841 type B standard (ascenders for work): fall test on a dynamic lanyard, ascender on a semi-static rope at 1 m from the anchor. Test with the mass engraved on the ascender (140 kg for ASCENSION, BASIC, CROLL on compatible rope diameters greater than 10mm).
- EN 567 standard (ascenders for sport): no fall test.
- Petzl's internal testing complement the requirements of the standards by being based on realistic usage scenarios.
- These tests ensure that the ascenders do not tear the rope in the most unfavorable conditions (fall of the length of the lanyard, 1 m from the anchor, 80 kg dummy, ropes of compatible diameters).
3. Different Modes of Ascender Use
Rope Ascent
The user is hanging on a progression rope.
The recommended rope ascent system includes a chest ascender (CROLL) and an ascender on a lanyard (BASIC, ASCENSION).
As a single ascender is not trustworthy, it is recommended to use two ascenders, both attached to the harness.
Progression along a Fixed Rope
The user is on their feet, using one or more ascenders for self-belay and as an aid to progression.
The user has their hands free to slide the ascenders along the safety rope, while always keeping it taut.
If there is a low probability of a fall, using one ascender is possible; the rope must always stay taut between the ascender and the anchor.
Self-Belayed Climbing
The user is focused on climbing, belayed by ascenders that follow their progression. The user does not have their hands free to manage ascender position and rope tension.
A fall is likely in this technical climbing situation, so it is recommended to use two ascenders attached to the harness.
LOWERING A LOAD WITH THE CAM DEACTIVATED
Before deactivating the cam, it is necessary to install a braking system that allows you to hold the load and control the descent. With the MICRO TRAXION in "simple pulley" mode, a REVERSO on the harness is a good solution.
1. REVERSO installed on the harness
2. Belayer taking the load and deactivating the cam
When the belayer takes the load onto himself, the tension in the rope allows the MICRO TRAXION's cam to be deactivated. Push the button, then release it to hold the cam in the raised position.
3. Lowering the load
The descent speed must be moderate, to limit the shock load in case the cam re-activates itself.
This can happen in case of vibrations, the cam pressing against the rock or equipment, or due to rope movements.
| Warning: The pulley at the redirect point significantly reduces friction (about half the friction of a carabiner). In case of jerks during the lower, the belayer can be pulled toward the pulley, especially if their stance is unstable. |
CREVASSE FALL: HAULING ON A ROPE WITH KNOTS
Tying knots into the rope is valuable in helping to brake a fall into a crevasse when there are only two team members tied in. In case of a fall, and without a second rope available, the victim must be hauled up on a rope tied with knots, which can not pass through a rope clamp at the head of the system. The method for untying the knots requires little additional equipment.
Transferring The Load To The Rope Clamp Below
The load must be transferred temporarily onto the rope clamp below, which is connected to the anchor, in order to slacken the rope and untie the knot.
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1. Once the hauling system is in place, raising the victim moves the knots toward the system. |
2. Move the TIBLOC-type rope clamp below the knot to the other side of the knot. The TIBLOC is not loaded and can simply be removed. |
3. With the weight still on the pulley, install a long sling (120 cm) onto the anchor and connect it to the TIBLOC. Push the TIBLOC downward until the sling is at maximum tension. |
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4. Carry out a small pull on the system to briefly release the cam of the MICRO TRAXION. Allow the load to descend under tension onto the sling and TIBLOC. |
5. With the load on the TIBLOC, only the sling and the lower rope are taut. Untie the knot. |
6. After untying the knot, check that the MICRO TRAXION's cam is engaged and continue normal hauling on the system. After the first movement, disconnect the sling from the TIBLOC, until the next knot. |
CREVASSE RESCUE NO. 1: TRANSFERRING THE VICTIM'S WEIGHT TO AN ANCHOR
Once the fall has been arrested, the person on the surface holds the victim by acting as a counter-weight. Rapidly creating an anchor allows unloading of the victim's weight to organize the rescue.
1. Creating a reliable anchor: ice axe or ski buried in the snow, or an ice screw in the ice. Connecting a sling to the anchor while respecting the direction of pull towards the victim.
2. Install the MICRO TRAXION on the rope in the direction of hauling: it locks when pulled toward the anchor, and slides when pulled toward the victim.
3. Connect the MICRO TRAXION to the anchor sling with a symmetrical locking carabiner (ATTACHE 3D). Extend the sling to its maximum length while sliding the MICRO TRAXION on the rope toward the victim.
4. Gently release the tension of the rope on the harness to transfer the load to the MICRO TRAXION. Be careful to avoid jerky movements at this time, which would weaken the anchor.
Verify that the anchor is holding well under load. Untie the knot securing the chest loops, while remaining tied in to the end of the rope.
5. The victim is now held only by the anchor; the rescuer is able to move freely.
CREVASSE RESCUE NO. 2: ACCESSING THE EDGE OF THE CREVASSE TO EVALUATE THE SITUATION
Once the fall has been arrested and the victim's weight transferred to the anchor, it is necessary to access the edge of the crevasse to assess the victim's condition before starting the haul.
The person on the surface, the "rescuer", must always be anchored. If creating a second anchor is not possible, the rescuer can use the same anchor as the victim. The rescuer's movements must be done with the rope under tension to avoid a shock load in case of a fall, which could weaken the anchor.
Moving With An Autoblock Knot On The Victim's Rope
If the "rescuer side" of the rope is too short, it is possible to move with the autoblock on the taut rope supporting the victim. The rescuer must tie-in again as soon as possible after returning to the anchor.
Warning: In this case, if the rescuer falls, for example if the crevasse lip collapses, both climbers will be held by the same rope. The stresses on the system will be significant (anchor + progress capture pulley).
- The anchor could fail, causing both climbers to fall
- If the anchor holds, the rope could be damaged or cut by the MICRO TRAXION's cam, especially if the rope is thin (See test results at the end of this document)
Moving With An Autoblock Knot On The Rescuer's Rope
The autoblock allows the length of the rescuer's belay rope to be constantly adjusted, without needing to untie from the rope.
